Surf Diaries: 10/09/2022 Laniakea

Date: 10/09/2022

Location: Laniakea 21.6172° N, 158.0873° W

Swell: 8.5ft @ 12.5 seconds – 356°N

Wind: trades

Tide: low @ 7:46am 0.3ft | high @ 2:35pm 1.3ft

Moon: Full 100% tilt:132.948° rise:6:26pm set:7:14am phase: Akua

When all the elements come together.

This is the start to a new series that I couldn’t be more excited for. It brings me back to my childhood. From the time I was eleven years old, I was a surf rat. I practically lived at the beach and would get dropped off with my backpack and surfboard, and surf all day. Aside from all the necessities like a towel, fruit rollup and sunscreen; there was something else I never left home without. It was my little journal. Throughout the years this has been a constant, even though I can drive myself to the beach now. 

I would surf and then reflect. Charting the conditions of all the elements made me appreciate each wave so much more. It is fascinating how everything comes together just right to create a perfect wave. This day at Lanis made me start charting again.

Key: **** indicates a secret spot

From my journal:

Today I am grateful for an extraordinary day of surfing. I started the day at **** and it was absolutely perfect. There were only about five people out there and the most beautiful lefts I’ve surfed in a long time. I took out my 6’3’ Arakawa and this was definitely the right call. I am trying to get more comfortable surfing my step-up. It is out of my comfort zone compared to my shortboard and big wave guns. My last wave is where everything finally connected. I took it to the beach and had a skip in my step all the way to breakfast. I fueled up and did some work online so I could get back out the door before lunch. It is hard to focus on anything that is not surfing when the waves are good. How do people do it?

It was now time for Lanis. I don’t think I’ll ever forget this session. Prior to this point, I have never really seen Lanis become fully alive. Today she was wide awake. It reminded me of ****. It was maybe 8ft on the biggest set and absolutely mind expanding. I stayed out as long as my arms allowed. After a few hours they began to drag me towards shore. It was hard to leave but I was satisfied. 

I am now home catching up on work and feasting. I know I will sleep well tonight. It is a full moon and I can still hear the waves dancing for her arrival. Till the next time when it all connects, I will be thinking of this day at Laniakea.